Rated among Europe's most demanding long-distance trails, the GR20 traces a rocky spine from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south across fifteen days of sustained mountain terrain. I walked the full route in late September when the summer crowds had thinned but the high refuges were still open. The northern section tests your nerve: exposed granite ridges, chain-assisted descents, and the psychological toll of sustained altitude. The southern half opens into broader valleys and longer meadow sections, rewarding those who have earned their legs on the first week. Water sources can be scarce on certain northern stages; carry at least two litres between marked streams. Budget for hut accommodation as wild camping is restricted in the national park. The finish in Conca feels earned in a way that few trails anywhere can match.
Europe
Eating your way around a Lisbon tasca crawl
Forget the tourist-menu boards near the castle. Real Lisbon eating happens in the tascas — tiny family tabernas where the day's ca