SOUTHEAST ASIA

Flores to Komodo: dragons, phinisi decks and pink-sand bays

Flores to Komodo: dragons, phinisi decks and pink-sand bays

Sail a traditional wooden phinisi through Komodo National Park, snorkel reef walls and manta cleaning stations, and track dragons on their home islands.

This is Indonesia's outer-islands trip: three nights and four days living aboard a traditional Bugis-built phinisi schooner, threading between the volcanic islands of Komodo National Park. Days are built around the water — snorkelling coral walls thick with reef fish, drifting over manta ray cleaning stations at Manta Point, swimming Pink Beach where crushed red coral tints the sand — and around the islands themselves, with guided treks on Komodo and Rinca to track the wild dragons that give the park its name, accompanied always by park rangers carrying forked sticks. A sunrise climb up Padar Island, for the three-bay view that's become the park's signature photograph, is a highlight nobody skips.

You sleep on deck under open sky or in simple cabins below, eat fresh-caught fish grilled each evening, and wake to a different bay every morning. It's a physically easy trip — most days are snorkelling and short walks rather than serious hiking — but it demands comfort with basic boat living and a genuine appetite for isolation; some of these anchorages have no other vessel in sight and no phone signal for days.

Freya Lindqvist
WRITTEN BY Freya Lindqvist Nordic & Arctic editor

Freya covers the far north — fjords, aurora and the long polar light — from a cabin outside Tromsø. She edits our Scandinavia and Arctic desk between sea-kayaking expeditions.

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