SOUTHEAST ASIA

The Ha Giang Loop: karst mountains and mist by motorbike

The Ha Giang Loop: karst mountains and mist by motorbike

Ride the hairpin passes of Vietnam's wildest frontier province on the back of an easy rider's bike, through terraced valleys and Hmong market towns.

The Ha Giang Loop is northern Vietnam's answer to the Andes: a ribbon of switchbacks strung between limestone peaks hard against the Chinese border. This trip puts you on the back of a semi-automatic Minsk or Honda, driven by a local 'easy rider', so you can watch the karst spires of the Dong Van Plateau go by without ever touching the throttle yourself — or take the handlebars for stretches if you'd rather ride solo behind our support jeep. Either way, the road does the work: the Ma Pi Leng Pass, the Nho Que River a thousand feet below, and villages where H'mong, Tay and Lo Lo families still dye cloth with indigo and burn corn liquor in their yards.

Nights are spent in homestays on stilts, sharing rice wine and grilled river fish with your hosts, and mornings start early to beat the mist off the passes. This is not a paved highway tour — expect gravel, weather, and long days in the saddle — but it rewards with some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in Southeast Asia and a version of Vietnam almost no coach tour ever reaches.

Inés Carvalho
WRITTEN BY Inés Carvalho Iberia correspondent

Lisbon-based writer covering the Iberian peninsula — its kitchens, craft traditions and the slow trains that link them. Eight years on the road, mostly on foot.

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