EXPERIENCES

Chasing the northern lights from Tromsø

Inés Carvalho
Inés Carvalho December 5, 20251 min read
Chasing the northern lights from Tromsø

From this Arctic Norwegian city, small guided groups drive out into the dark most clear winter nights chasing a break in the cloud where the aurora might show.

Tromsø sits well inside the auroral oval, but city light still washes out the sky, so a chase means a minibus or boat heading out along the fjords toward genuinely dark coastline, sometimes for an hour or more, following live cloud forecasts rather than a fixed itinerary. Guides swap plans mid-drive based on satellite images, which is part of why a private guided chase outperforms staying put and hoping.

Waiting is most of the experience — standing in deep cold, thermal suit zipped to the chin, watching a faint grey-green smudge resolve slowly into a ribbon and then, on a good night, break into curtains of light that move visibly overhead. Photographers in the group often share tripod space, since a still camera with a long exposure catches color and structure the naked eye only partly sees.

Book at least three nights if your schedule allows — the aurora is a matter of clear sky as much as solar activity, and giving yourself multiple attempts is the single best way to actually see it rather than just the clouds above Tromsø.

Inés Carvalho
WRITTEN BY Inés Carvalho Iberia correspondent

Lisbon-based writer covering the Iberian peninsula — its kitchens, craft traditions and the slow trains that link them. Eight years on the road, mostly on foot.

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