SLOW RAIL JOURNEYS

The Canadian: four days across a continent by VIA Rail

Mateo Duarte
Mateo Duarte June 27, 20251 min read
The Canadian: four days across a continent by VIA Rail

Toronto to Vancouver by transcontinental train trades speed for a slow unspooling of prairie, mountain and lake that no highway or flight can match.

The Canadian leaves Toronto's Union Station and doesn't really stop being impressive until it reaches the Pacific four days later. The first stretch through Northern Ontario is granite and black spruce and lake after lake, the Canadian Shield at its most repetitive and most hypnotic — you start to understand why this landscape produced a whole school of painters obsessed with exactly this scenery.

Day two brings the Prairies, and this is where the train's slowness becomes the whole point: hour after hour of wheat and canola under a sky too big for any window to properly frame, grain elevators marking small towns from a great distance before the train ever reaches them. The dome cars — glass-topped observation carriages — are worth the upgrade here if nowhere else on the trip.

Then the Rockies arrive almost without warning outside Jasper, and the last day is spent winding through mountain passes and river gorges toward the coast, the scenery changing register completely from the plains. Meals in the dining car are included in sleeper class and run on a fixed schedule that becomes its own kind of ritual — you eat when the train says to eat, and you meet whoever is seated across from you.

Book a cabin rather than coach if your budget allows; four days sitting upright adds up. And bring patience for delays — this is a passenger train sharing freight track, and schedules are treated as more of a suggestion the further west you go.

Mateo Duarte
WRITTEN BY Mateo Duarte Andes correspondent

Quito-born and altitude-proof, Mateo files from the high passes and colonial cities of the Andes and wider Latin America. He has crossed the Andes nine times by every means short of flying.

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