RIADS & RYOKAN

A ryokan night and a private onsen in Hakone

Mateo Duarte
Mateo Duarte July 19, 20251 min read
A ryokan night and a private onsen in Hakone

A Hakone ryokan distils Japanese hospitality into one evening: a tatami room, a multi-course kaiseki dinner and a steaming private onsen with a mountain view.

An evening built around a bath

A Hakone ryokan distils Japanese hospitality into a single evening: a tatami room, a multi-course kaiseki dinner and a steaming private onsen with a mountain view. You change into a yukata on arrival, soak before dinner and again before bed, and let the ritual slow you right down.

The private onsen is the luxury worth paying for — your own open-air bath, booked for an hour, steam rising into the cold night while the rest of the inn sleeps.

The rhythm of a stay

  • Green tea and a sweet on arrival, then a long soak before the evening meal.
  • Kaiseki dinner served in your room or a private dining space, course by course.
  • A final dawn bath, then breakfast of grilled fish, rice and pickles.

Wake to Mount Fuji framed in the window if the weather obliges. One night is enough to reset you completely — the ryokan asks nothing of you but that you slow down and pay attention, which turns out to be the whole holiday.

Mateo Duarte
WRITTEN BY Mateo Duarte Andes correspondent

Quito-born and altitude-proof, Mateo files from the high passes and colonial cities of the Andes and wider Latin America. He has crossed the Andes nine times by every means short of flying.

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