EUROPE

A two-week loop through the Balkans, from Dubrovnik to Lake Ohrid

Inés Carvalho
Inés Carvalho March 12, 20251 min read
A two-week loop through the Balkans, from Dubrovnik to Lake Ohrid

Two weeks is enough to trace a loop through the Balkans that swaps medieval walls for mountain lakes without ever feeling rushed.

Begin in Dubrovnik, but don't linger too long inside the walls — the real reward of a Balkans loop is what lies beyond the cruise-ship crowds. Head south along the coast road to the Bay of Kotor, where limestone peaks drop straight into water so still it doubles the mountains above it. Base yourself in Perast rather than Kotor town itself; the crowds thin out by early evening and the walk along the shore front at dusk, with fishing boats knocking gently against the jetty, is one of the loop's quiet highlights.

From Kotor, cut inland through Montenegro's interior to Durmitor National Park, where the Tara River Canyon carves a gorge nearly as deep as the Grand Canyon in places. It's a full day's drive on switchback roads, so break the journey in Žabljak and give yourself a morning for the short hike to Black Lake before continuing on. The roads here are good but narrow; rent something smaller than you think you need and you'll thank yourself on the hairpins above Trsteno.

Finish in North Macedonia at Lake Ohrid, one of Europe's oldest and deepest lakes, ringed by Byzantine churches that seem to grow straight out of the cliffs. Sveti Jovan at Kaneo, perched on its rocky promontory at sunset, is the single image most people bring home from the Balkans, and it's every bit as good as the photographs suggest. Two weeks is tight for this much ground, so treat it as a loop to return to rather than one to complete — the region rewards a second and third visit more than most.

Inés Carvalho
WRITTEN BY Inés Carvalho Iberia correspondent

Lisbon-based writer covering the Iberian peninsula — its kitchens, craft traditions and the slow trains that link them. Eight years on the road, mostly on foot.

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