EXPERIENCES

The sauna-and-ice ritual, done properly in Finland

Hana Novak
Hana Novak January 9, 20251 min read
The sauna-and-ice ritual, done properly in Finland

The real Finnish sauna experience is not a single steam room but a rhythm — heat, cold shock, rest, repeat — best learned at a countryside sauna beside a frozen lake rather than a hotel spa.

A proper session starts in a wood-fired savusauna or electric-heated cabin, sitting until the heat is genuinely uncomfortable, sometimes helped along with a birch vihta whisk lightly beaten against the skin, a practice locals swear improves circulation. Then comes the part visitors underestimate: walking straight out, often in nothing but a towel, to a hole cut in the ice or simply the open lake, and going in.

The cold is genuinely shocking for the first few seconds and then, oddly, calming — most Finns describe an alertness afterward that no amount of caffeine replicates. The cycle repeats two or three times over an evening, with quiet stretches of sitting wrapped in a blanket between rounds, often with nothing more than a hot drink and conversation.

Ease into the ice rather than diving, feet first and only as long as feels manageable at first — a few seconds is plenty to start. Skip alcohol beforehand despite the beer that often appears at sauna evenings, since it dulls your judgment of how the cold is actually affecting you.

Hana Novak
WRITTEN BY Hana Novak Central Europe editor

Hana edits our Central Europe coverage from Prague, with a soft spot for mountain railways, spa towns and the quiet corners of the old Habsburg map.

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