ASIA

Temple-hopping by bicycle in Bagan

Yuki Tanabe
Yuki Tanabe March 18, 20251 min read
Temple-hopping by bicycle in Bagan

More than two thousand temples spread across the Bagan plain, and an e-bike lets you find your own quiet pagoda for sunrise.

Two thousand temples, one flat plain

Bagan spreads more than two thousand brick temples and stupas across a dusty plain beside the Irrawaddy, and the best way to reach the quiet ones is by bicycle — or an e-bike if the heat has beaten you. Away from the famous few, you can prop the bike against a thousand-year-old shrine and have it entirely to yourself.

The light does the heavy lifting: at dawn the plain fills with mist and the temples float; at dusk everything turns the colour of the bricks.

Riding the plain

  • Start at first light while it is cool and the crowds are still at the big viewpoints.
  • Carry more water than you think you need — shade is scarce between temples.
  • Follow the sandy side tracks; the emptiest temples are rarely the signposted ones.

Bagan rewards wandering over ticking off a list. Pick a direction, ride until a temple pulls you in, climb where you are allowed, and let the plain unfold at bicycle speed.

Yuki Tanabe
WRITTEN BY Yuki Tanabe Food & culture editor

Yuki splits the year between Tokyo and Kyoto, writing about Japanese food, craft and the rail lines that stitch the country together. Obsessed with breakfast and slow mornings.

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