ASIA

Along the Silk Road: Uzbekistan's blue-tiled cities and the mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Kwame Mensah
Kwame Mensah February 25, 20251 min read
Along the Silk Road: Uzbekistan's blue-tiled cities and the mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Two weeks through Central Asia's old Silk Road cities and its high mountain pastures makes for one of the more underrated overland routes on the continent.

Samarkand's Registan square is one of those sights that photographs somehow undersell — three colossal madrasas faced in turquoise tile, floodlit after dark and nearly empty of visitors even at the peak of the day. Give the city two full days, then take the fast train to Bukhara, whose old town is smaller and more lived-in, its covered bazaars still selling the same silk and spice they have for centuries.

Cross into Kyrgyzstan via the Fergana Valley — the border crossing itself is straightforward for most nationalities but can take a couple of hours, so build in a buffer day. Osh, on the Kyrgyz side, is worth a night for its enormous Sunday bazaar before you head into the mountains proper.

The real reason to make this detour is Song-Kol, a high alpine lake at over three thousand metres reached by a rough but spectacular road, where nomadic families still move their yurts up to summer pasture each year. Arrange a homestay through a local operator rather than turning up independently; the families rotate hosting duties and a pre-arranged stay means a proper meal, a warm yurt, and usually an invitation to help herd horses at dawn.

Kwame Mensah
WRITTEN BY Kwame Mensah West Africa correspondent

Accra-based Kwame reports on West and East Africa — its national parks, coastlines and the great wildlife migrations — and has guided on safari for over a decade.

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